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Spencer Li

How Much of Your Portfolio Should Be in One Stock?

Risk & Money Management
How much in one stock? - risk management

There is no single safe percentage. There is a test that finds yours, and it starts by imagining the stock goes to 0.

Published: 17 August 2026 · By Spencer Li, CFTe


“How much of any one stock is safe to hold in a portfolio?” Someone asked exactly that on Reddit’s r/stocks, and it is one of the most common questions new investors ask.

The honest answer is that no single percentage is safe for everyone. The right size depends on how much of your whole portfolio you could afford to lose to one company.

The clean way to find it is what I call the Zero Test. Assume the stock goes to 0, and ask whether you could live with the hit.

A 5% position that goes to 0 costs you 5% of your portfolio. A 20% position costs you 20%, and a 50% position costs you half. Pick the largest loss you would accept from any single company, and that number is your ceiling.

Four bars, each a whole portfolio; the red part is the position, 5%, 10%, 20% or 50%, and it is what you lose if that stock goes to 0
If a stock goes to 0, you lose its whole share of your portfolio.

Then keep checking it, because a winning stock quietly grows into a bigger share than you ever chose. Below are the numbers, why a stock going to 0 is not as rare as it feels, and the 2 other places concentration hides.

Assume it goes to 0, then pick your size. Summary card for the post: How Much of Your Portfolio Should Be in One Stock?.

Why is there no single safe percentage?

Because 2 people holding the same stock at the same weight can be taking very different risks, depending on how they hold it, how long they plan to keep it and what else sits in the account beside it.

The first trades it with a stop-loss. Their risk is set by the distance to the stop, and the position size follows from that. The 2% money management rule covers that side of it.

The second holds it for years with no stop at all. Their risk is the whole position, because nothing gets them out on the way down.

What else they own matters too. A lot. 10% in one bank stock means something different when the other 90% is cash than when it is 4 more bank stocks.

So instead of a number, you need a test you can run on your own portfolio.

What does the Zero Test show?

The Zero Test asks one thing: if this stock fell hard, or went to 0, what would it cost the whole portfolio? The answer is the position’s weight multiplied by the fall.

Position sizeStock falls 30%Stock falls 50%Stock falls 80%Stock goes to 0
5% of portfolio−1.5%−2.5%−4%−5%
10% of portfolio−3%−5%−8%−10%
20% of portfolio−6%−10%−16%−20%
50% of portfolio−15%−25%−40%−50%

Read the last column first. That is the cost if you were wrong about the company in the worst way.

Then look at what it takes to earn it back. Losses and gains are not symmetrical:

Position goes to 0Portfolio lossGain the rest needs to get back to even
5% position−5%+5.3%
10% position−10%+11.1%
20% position−20%+25%
50% position−50%+100%

A 5% mistake needs a 5.3% gain on the rest to repair. A 50% mistake asks the rest of your portfolio to double just to get back to where you started.

There is no right row. The test is personal: find the row where the last column still lets you sleep, and that is your ceiling for any one name.

Is a stock going to 0 really that likely?

It feels rare, because the stocks we hear about are the survivors. The long-run record says otherwise.

Hendrik Bessembinder of Arizona State University studied the lifetime returns of every US common stock traded on the New York and American stock exchanges and the Nasdaq since 1926. He found that just 86 stocks accounted for “half of the stock market total” of wealth created “over the past 90 years”.

The other side of that finding is the part that matters here. In his words, “the remaining 96 percent of stocks collectively matched one-month T-bills.”

Do note the word “collectively”. It describes the group as a whole and says nothing about any single stock inside it. But it tells you how lopsided single-stock returns are. The market’s long-run gains came from a small handful of companies, and holding one stock is a bet that you picked one of them.

That is why the Zero Test is worth running even on a company you believe in. Conviction does not change the shape of the odds.

Does a stop-loss make a big position safe?

It helps a great deal, but it does not make the Zero Test irrelevant.

A stop caps the loss you plan for. It does not cap the loss you can get. A stop order turns into a market order when its price is touched, and the SEC’s investor bulletin warns that the fill “can deviate significantly from the stop price” when prices move fast.

The classic case is an overnight gap. Bad results come out after the close, the stock opens 40% lower the next morning, and the stop you placed 8% below your entry fills somewhere near −40%, 5 times the loss you planned for. Order Types Explained: Market, Limit, Stop and Stop-Limit walks through why.

So even with a stop, ask what a large gap would cost the whole portfolio at your current size. If that answer scares you, the position is too big for the stop to protect.

Sizing every position so a single loss cannot hurt the whole account is the core of risk management. Our free 15-Minute Swing Trader’s Checklist puts that check in front of you before every trade. Get the free checklist →

How does a position grow past your limit without you buying more?

By winning. This is the part of concentration most people never notice, because it feels like good news.

Say you start with 10% in one stock and 90% in everything else. Here is what happens to its share as it rises, if the rest of the portfolio stays flat:

The stock…Its share of your portfolio
stays flat10%
doubles18.2%
triples25%
rises 5 times35.7%

You never bought another share. But a stock that rises 5 times now carries more than a third of your portfolio, and its Zero Test result has gone from 10% to almost 36%.

This is drift. The check is simple. Every few months, compare each position’s current weight against the ceiling you set.

When one has drifted past it, you have 2 honest choices. Trim it back to your ceiling. Or raise the ceiling on purpose, knowing what the new Zero Test result is.

The only wrong choice is not noticing. A position you sized at 10% and now hold at 36% is a decision you never actually made.

The reverse problem is adding to a stock as it falls, which pushes the weight up on the way down. That has its own post: Why You Should Never Average Down.

Where else does concentration hide?

The Zero Test works on one ticker at a time. Concentration also hides in 2 places a ticker-by-ticker check will miss.

Overlap. 5 stocks in the same industry can behave like 1 stock in a bad year for that industry, because one piece of news hits them all at once. A fund you hold may own the same company you already hold directly, which adds to your real exposure. Add those together before you run the test.

Your job. If you hold shares in the company you work for, your salary and your shares depend on the same business. If it gets into trouble, both can be hit at the same time. Count that position twice when you decide what you could live with.

Putting the Zero Test to work

Run 3 checks on your own portfolio, once now and then every few months:

  1. The Zero Test. For each position, multiply its weight by 100%. Is every result a loss you could live with?
  2. The drift check. Has any position grown past the ceiling you set when you bought it?
  3. The overlap check. Group the positions that would fall together on the same news, and run the Zero Test on each group as if it were one stock.

None of this tells you which stocks to own. It tells you how much damage any one of them can do. If you want the maths of how repeated losses compound into a wiped-out account, read Risk of Ruin: How to Work It Out.

The size you chose when you bought a stock is not the size you hold today. The Zero Test is how you find out the difference before the market does.

One-stock concentration FAQ

Is it safe to have 50% of my portfolio in one stock?

Run the Zero Test: if that stock went to 0, you would lose half your portfolio and need the rest to double to get back to even. Whether that is acceptable is your call, but it is worth making with those 2 numbers in front of you.

Does an index fund count as one stock?

No. An index fund holds many companies, so one company failing hits it only by that company’s weight in the index. But check whether a big holding in the fund is also a big direct holding of yours, because that is overlap.

Should I sell a winner that has grown too big?

That is a choice between trimming it back to your ceiling and raising your ceiling on purpose. Either can be reasonable. What matters is that you decide with the new Zero Test result in front of you.

How often should I check my position sizes?

Every few months, and after any large move in one of your holdings. Drift happens slowly and then all at once, so put the check on your calendar.

Is this the same as the 2% rule?

No. The 2% rule limits how much you risk per trade when you trade with a stop-loss. The Zero Test limits how much any one company can cost you if everything goes wrong, stop or no stop. Use both.

Go deeper

This post sits under our guide to money and risk management, and our guide to building an investment portfolio covers the bigger picture. If you would like the routine that fixes your stop and size before every trade, the free 15-Minute Swing Trader’s Checklist is the place to start.


About the author. Spencer Li is The 15-Minute Trader and the founder of Synapse Trading. He is a Certified Financial Technician (CFTe) with 15+ years of trading, run from 70+ countries. He holds a B.Acc and B.BM from SMU. Every trade he takes is public, dated, losses left in. He teaches rules-based swing trading in 15 minutes a day, one system for any market.

Educational content only, not personalised financial advice. Trading carries risk, including loss of capital. Past performance is not indicative of future results. Synapse Trading is not licensed or regulated by MAS.

by Spencer Li
https://synapsetrading.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/how-much-portfolio-one-stock-card.webp 630 1200 Spencer Li https://synapsetrading.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/synapse-logo-horizontal-light.png Spencer Li2026-08-17 10:54:452026-10-27 17:06:32How Much of Your Portfolio Should Be in One Stock?
Spencer Li

What Is Bitcoin? How It Works, Who Controls It, and What Can Go Wrong

Blockchain & Crypto
What is Bitcoin? - crypto

Last updated: 19 September 2026 · By Spencer Li, CFTe


Bitcoin is a digital currency that runs on a shared public record, the blockchain, kept by thousands of computers instead of a bank. Nobody issues it and nobody can freeze the network. New bitcoins are created on a fixed schedule, and only 21 million will ever exist. You hold bitcoin through a private key, a secret code that proves the coins are yours. Its price moves freely on supply and demand, and it can rise or fall sharply.

Bitcoin’s own site describes it as “a consensus network that enables a new payment system and a completely digital money.” It adds: “From a user perspective, Bitcoin is pretty much like cash for the Internet.”

In this post, I’m going to cover where Bitcoin came from, how a transaction actually works, who is in charge, and the risks that matter if you are thinking of holding any.

Bitcoin moves value with no bank and no undo. Summary card for the post: What Is Bitcoin? How It Works, Who Controls It, and What Can Go Wrong.

Where did Bitcoin come from?

It started with a short paper. Someone using the name Satoshi Nakamoto published “Bitcoin: A Peer-to-Peer Electronic Cash System.” Its first sentence sets out the whole idea: “A purely peer-to-peer version of electronic cash would allow online payments to be sent directly from one party to another without going through a financial institution.”

According to bitcoin.org, “The first Bitcoin specification and proof of concept was published in 2009 in a cryptography mailing list by Satoshi Nakamoto.” The same page adds that Satoshi “left the project in late 2010 without revealing much about himself.” To this day, nobody has publicly proven who Satoshi is.

How does Bitcoin work?

The core trick is a shared record that nobody owns and everybody can check.

When you send bitcoin, your wallet signs the payment with your private key and broadcasts it to the network. Miners collect waiting payments into a block. Roughly every 10 minutes, one of them wins the right to add the next block, and every computer on the network updates its copy of the record. Your payment is then confirmed, and each new block on top makes it harder to undo. What is Bitcoin mining walks through the numbers behind that race.

2 features follow from this design:

  • Payments cannot be reversed. Bitcoin.org says “once confirmed, they can only be refunded by the person receiving the funds.” There is no bank to call and no chargeback.
  • Whoever holds the key holds the coins. Lose the key, and the coins are stuck forever. Share it, and they can be taken.

Why will there only ever be 21 million bitcoins?

Because the schedule is written into the software. Bitcoin.org explains that new coins are created “at a decreasing and predictable rate”, and the number created “is automatically halved over time until bitcoin issuance halts completely with a total of 21 million bitcoins in existence.”

As of 16 October 2026, about 20.10 million bitcoins had been issued, around 95.7% of the total, according to blockchain.info. The rest will trickle out over more than a century, at a pace that halves roughly every 4 years.

21 million sounds small for a global currency, but each bitcoin splits into tiny units. In bitcoin.org’s words, “there are 100,000,000 satoshis in 1 bitcoin.”

Here is how that compares with the money in your bank account:

Singapore dollars in a bankBitcoin
Who issues itThe Monetary Authority of SingaporeNew coins are created by the software, paid to miners
Total supplySet by monetary policyCapped at 21 million
Who keeps the recordYour bankThousands of computers, each with a full copy
Can a payment be reversed?Often, through the bankNo, once confirmed
If you lose your loginThe bank can restore accessIf you lose the key, the coins are gone
Price against goodsManaged for stabilityFloats freely, often sharply

If you want a daily routine for trading what you understand, the free 15-Minute Swing Trader’s Checklist is at the end of this post.

Who controls Bitcoin?

Nobody, and everybody who uses it. Bitcoin.org compares it to email: “Nobody owns the Bitcoin network much like no one owns the technology behind email.” Developers can propose changes, but “they can’t force a change in the Bitcoin protocol because all users are free to choose what software and version they use.”

That has a flip side. With no company in charge, there is also nobody to complain to. If you send coins to the wrong address or fall for a scam, no help desk can reverse it.

Is Bitcoin safe?

Here is where people mix up 2 very different things. I call it the bank-robbery test.

Bitcoin.org puts it like this. Thefts at exchanges and businesses do not “involve Bitcoin itself being hacked, nor imply inherent flaws in Bitcoin.” It compares them to a bank robbery, which “doesn’t mean that the dollar is compromised.”

So when you read about stolen coins, ask which one it was. Was the Bitcoin network broken, or was a company that held other people’s coins broken into? Almost every famous loss has been the second kind. That matters, because it tells you where your own risk sits: with whoever holds your keys.

The bank-robbery test: the Bitcoin network stays intact, while the exchange holding people's coins is the one that gets robbed
Most bitcoin thefts break into a company holding coins, not the Bitcoin network.

What can go wrong if you own Bitcoin?

4 things, and none of them are hypothetical.

The price can fall hard. Bitcoin.org is candid on this: there is “no guaranteed purchasing power and the exchange rate floats freely,” which “leads to volatility where owners of bitcoins can unpredictably make or lose money.” It also says “There is no guarantee that Bitcoin will continue to grow.”

You can lose your keys. No one can reset them for you. How to store crypto safely covers the habits that prevent this.

The company holding your coins can fail. When an exchange keeps your coins, bitcoin.org calls it “a form of counterparty risk.”

You can be scammed. Bitcoin.org’s own rule of thumb is that “guaranteed-return investment offers are scams.”

Singapore’s regulator takes a tougher line than bitcoin.org does. In a 2022 reply in Parliament, MAS said cryptocurrencies “are purely speculative as an investment asset, and have no intrinsic value. That is why MAS has consistently warned the retail public not to deal with them.” Bitcoin’s supporters disagree with that view. Whichever side you take, it tells you how the rules you trade under were written.

What does Bitcoin actually do?

Personally, I think the best way to understand Bitcoin is to stop arguing about its price for a moment and look at what it does. It moves value between 2 people without a bank, on a schedule nobody can change, with no way to undo a mistake. Some people see that as freedom. Others see it as risk with nobody to call. Both are describing the same design.

If you want to go further, the blockchain and cryptocurrencies guide maps the whole topic. Is cryptocurrency a good investment? weighs the case for and against. And how to invest in crypto without holding coins covers the routes that skip the wallet entirely.

So which part of the design matters most to you? The fixed supply, or the fact that nobody can reverse a payment? And if you held some today, who would actually hold your keys?

FAQ

What is Bitcoin in simple terms?

Bitcoin is a digital currency with no central issuer. Payments are recorded on a public blockchain kept by thousands of computers, and only 21 million bitcoins will ever exist.

Who created Bitcoin?

Someone using the name Satoshi Nakamoto. The first Bitcoin specification and proof of concept were published in 2009. Satoshi left the project in late 2010, and their identity has never been publicly proven.

How many bitcoins are left to mine?

About 900,000. Around 20.10 million of the 21 million had been issued as of 16 October 2026.

Is Bitcoin legal in Singapore?

This post is not legal advice. What MAS has made clear is that firms offering crypto services here fall under its rules for digital payment token services. It has also warned the public many times that crypto is highly speculative.

Go deeper

The free 15-Minute Swing Trader’s Checklist has the daily routine, the questions to ask before every trade, and the five rules that keep you in the game.


About the author. Spencer Li is The 15-Minute Trader and the founder of Synapse Trading. He is a Certified Financial Technician (CFTe) with 15+ years of trading, run from 70+ countries. He holds a B.Acc and B.BM from SMU. Every trade he takes is public, dated, losses left in. He teaches rules-based swing trading in 15 minutes a day, one system for any market.

Educational content only, not personalised financial advice. Trading carries risk, including loss of capital. Past performance is not indicative of future results. Synapse Trading is not licensed or regulated by MAS.

by Spencer Li
https://synapsetrading.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/what-is-bitcoin-card.webp 630 1200 Spencer Li https://synapsetrading.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/synapse-logo-horizontal-light.png Spencer Li2026-08-15 10:46:162026-10-26 16:53:11What Is Bitcoin? How It Works, Who Controls It, and What Can Go Wrong
Spencer Li

Robo-Adviser or DIY? What the Yearly Fee Actually Buys You

Singapore Money & Lifestyle
Robo-adviser or DIY? - investing

Last updated: 25 September 2026 · By Spencer Li, CFTe


A robo-adviser costs more each year than a DIY portfolio of index ETFs, and in return it does 2 jobs for you. It rebalances the portfolio on a schedule, and it removes most of the decisions you could get wrong. If you would hold a plain ETF portfolio through a crash without touching it, DIY is usually cheaper. If you know you would panic, sell or fiddle, the robo’s yearly fee may be the cheapest insurance you can buy against yourself.

So the real question is behavioural before it is financial. What would you do if your portfolio fell 30% in 3 months?

Do note that we sell neither. We don’t run a robo-adviser and we don’t sell an ETF, and this post names no platform. It answers a question Singapore investors ask constantly: should I put my monthly savings into a robo-adviser, or do it myself?

Ask the crash question before the fee. Summary card for the post: Robo-Adviser or DIY? What the Yearly Fee Actually Buys You.

What does a robo-adviser actually do?

MoneySense, the national financial education site, defines it as “a digital platform that uses algorithms to build and manage an investment portfolio for you”. You answer a questionnaire about your goals, your time horizon and how you would react to a big loss. The platform picks a mix of funds, usually ETFs, invests your money and rebalances when the mix drifts away from its target.

That is the whole product. There is no secret sauce in the fund selection, because most robo portfolios hold the same kind of low-cost index funds you could buy yourself. What you pay for is the machinery around them.

How much more does the robo cost?

MoneySense describes the robo’s cost as “a percentage of the assets under management per annum, plus underlying investment fund fees”. It also gives the right way to compare: “Add the platform’s management fee to the weighted average TER of the underlying ETFs to get your true total cost.” TER is the fund’s own yearly running cost.

Here is a hypothetical comparison. Suppose the robo’s all-in cost is 0.7% a year and a DIY portfolio of index ETFs costs 0.2% a year. You invest SGD 1,000 a month for 20 years, and the portfolio grows 6% a year before costs. That growth rate is an assumption for the example only.

DIY at 0.2% a yearRobo at 0.7% a year
Paid in over 20 yearsSGD 240,000SGD 240,000
Ending valueabout SGD 445,500about SGD 421,300
Gapabout SGD 24,200, or 5.4%

Read the gap again. SGD 24,200 is real money, and it is the price of the 2 jobs the robo does for you over 20 years. DIY has its own costs too, like commissions and currency spreads on each buy, which the post on dollar-cost averaging from Singapore works through.

Is the automation worth SGD 24,200?

It depends entirely on what you would have done without it.

Imagine 2 investors with the same DIY portfolio. The first holds through every crash, rebalances once a year and ends the 20 years at the DIY number. The second sells everything in a panic during the first big fall, sits in cash for a year out of fear and buys back after the recovery. That one decision can cost far more than 5.4%, and it happens in a single bad month.

A falling market reaches a decision point: if you would hold, DIY suits you; if you would sell, a robo-adviser suits you
Hold through a crash and DIY is cheaper; sell, and a robo may earn its fee.

MoneySense names this directly. A human adviser may suit you if “you need someone to hold you accountable and provide behavioural coaching”, and its example is talking you out of panic-selling during a market crash. A robo cannot talk you out of anything. But it does make doing nothing the default, and for many people the default is what decides the outcome.

Personally, I think this is where most comparison articles go wrong. They compare the fees to the second decimal place and leave the investor out of the sum entirely. It is as if the same person would behave the same way in a calm year and in a year when the news is full of words like “crash” and “wiped out”. A fee is a small, certain cost. One panic sale is a large, uncertain one. Our post on whether to sell everything or hold on in a crash goes deeper into that moment.

What do you give up with a robo?

Control, mostly. Here is the honest comparison.

Robo-adviserDIY ETF portfolio
Yearly costPlatform fee plus fund TERFund TER only
Per-buy costUsually noneCommission, spread, FX
RebalancingAutomaticYou do it, on a rule you set
Fund choiceThe platform’s listAny fund you can buy
MinimumOften very lowOne lot or one share
What it needs from youVery littleA rule, and the discipline to follow it

You cannot pick the fund domicile, which matters for US dividend tax and estate tax, a topic in how to choose an index ETF. You cannot hold something outside the platform’s menu. And if the platform changes its fees or closes a portfolio, you follow.

Is my money safe with a robo-adviser?

Check the licence first. MoneySense says robo-advisers in Singapore must be regulated by MAS, and tells readers to check the platform in the MAS Financial Institutions Directory. In its words: “Do not invest through any platform that is not on this list.”

On the platform failing, MoneySense says “Your invested assets (the ETFs) are held in custody separately from the robo-adviser’s own assets”. It also says your investments “are not covered by the Singapore Deposit Insurance Scheme (SDIC)”, which only covers bank deposits. And on the market itself, it is blunt: “robo-advisers do not protect against market losses.” A robo portfolio falls in a crash like any other.

So which one should you pick?

Ask yourself the crash question first. If your portfolio fell 30% in 3 months, would you hold, rebalance and keep buying, or would you sell?

If you can honestly answer “hold” and you are willing to set a rebalancing rule, DIY is usually cheaper, and rebalancing is less work than it sounds. MoneySense’s own suggestion is to do it “on a schedule (annually is typical) rather than in response to market events”.

If you are not sure, the robo’s fee buys you a default you will probably stick to, and that has value. You can also split the two. MoneySense notes many investors use a robo for the long-term core while working with a human adviser for things like insurance and estate planning, and some people run a robo for one goal and a DIY portfolio for another. Whether a human adviser is worth their fees is a separate sum, covered in is your adviser or bank RM worth the fees.

The full map of the DIY route is in the DIY guide to building your investment portfolio.

If you also trade, the free 15-Minute Swing Trader’s Checklist keeps that side to a short daily routine. It is at the end of this post.

So, what did you actually do the last time the market fell hard, and does your answer change which column you belong in?

FAQ

Is a robo-adviser better than DIY investing?

It is more expensive each year and less flexible, but it rebalances automatically and makes holding through a crash the default. DIY is usually cheaper if you would hold and rebalance on your own.

How much does a robo-adviser cost compared with DIY?

Add the platform’s yearly fee to the funds’ TER. On a hypothetical SGD 1,000 a month for 20 years at 6% a year, a 0.7% all-in robo ends about SGD 24,200 below a 0.2% DIY portfolio.

Are robo-advisers in Singapore regulated?

MoneySense says they must be regulated by MAS. Check the platform in the MAS Financial Institutions Directory before depositing.

Can I lose money with a robo-adviser?

Yes. MoneySense says robo-advisers do not protect against market losses, and the investments are not covered by deposit insurance.

Go deeper

The free 15-Minute Swing Trader’s Checklist has the daily routine, the questions to ask before every trade, and the five rules that keep you in the game.


About the author. Spencer Li is The 15-Minute Trader and the founder of Synapse Trading. He is a Certified Financial Technician (CFTe) with 15+ years of trading, run from 70+ countries. He holds a B.Acc and B.BM from SMU. Every trade he takes is public, dated, losses left in. He teaches rules-based swing trading in 15 minutes a day, one system for any market.

Educational content only, not personalised financial advice. Trading carries risk, including loss of capital. Past performance is not indicative of future results. Synapse Trading is not licensed or regulated by MAS.

by Spencer Li
https://synapsetrading.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/robo-adviser-vs-diy-card.webp 630 1200 Spencer Li https://synapsetrading.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/synapse-logo-horizontal-light.png Spencer Li2026-08-12 08:13:492026-10-26 16:53:14Robo-Adviser or DIY? What the Yearly Fee Actually Buys You
Spencer Li

The Law of Large Numbers in Trading: How Many Trades Before You Judge a Strategy?

Risk & Money Management
How many trades to judge? - risk management

Last updated: 1 September 2026 · By Spencer Li, CFTe


The law of large numbers says that the average of many repeated trials drifts closer to the true average as the number of trials grows. In trading, it means your results only start to show a strategy’s real edge after a lot of trades. Before that, luck is louder than skill.

How many is a lot? Our rule of thumb at Synapse Trading is 100 to 200 trades before you judge a system. The reason is arithmetic. With 20 trades, a strategy that truly wins half the time can easily show a win rate anywhere from about 28% to 72%. With 200 trades, that band narrows to roughly 43% to 57%.

And the smaller your edge, the more trades it takes. I’ll show you both with exact numbers below.

Judge a strategy after 100 to 200 trades. Summary card for the post: The Law of Large Numbers in Trading: How Many Trades Before You Judge a Strategy?.

What does the law of large numbers actually say?

Flip a fair coin 10 times and getting 7 heads is unremarkable. Flip it 1,000 times and getting 700 heads would be astonishing. The coin did not change. The sample did.

A casino runs on exactly this. Its edge on a single spin is small, and on any one evening a lucky player can walk out ahead. Over millions of spins the house result lands very close to its built-in edge, which is why the casino does not care who wins tonight, and why it happily sends the lucky player home with a free dinner. A trader with an edge is in the casino’s seat, but with far fewer spins, so what matters is how many spins it takes before the edge shows through.

How wrong can a small sample be?

Quite wrong. Say your strategy truly wins 50% of the time. Here is the range your measured win rate will land in about 95% of the time:

Trades takenMeasured win rate, 95% of the time
20roughly 28% to 72%
50roughly 36% to 64%
100roughly 40% to 60%
200roughly 43% to 57%
500roughly 46% to 54%

After 20 trades, the same strategy could look brilliant or broken purely by chance, and the trader looking at it would have no way of telling which of the 2 he was seeing. After 200, the band is still about 14 points wide. This is why one good month proves very little, and why one bad month should not send you shopping for a new system.

The range of measured win rates for a strategy that truly wins half the time: from 28% to 72% after 20 trades, narrowing steadily by 500 trades
After 20 trades, a strategy that wins half the time can show 28% to 72%.

The Central Limit Theorem explains the shape of this. Add up enough independent trades and the total behaves like a bell curve. Its middle grows in step with the number of trades, while its spread only grows with the square root. So 4 times as many trades makes the noise half as large relative to the edge, which is a slow and fairly expensive way to buy certainty.

Can a losing strategy look like a winner?

Yes, and for longer than most people expect. Here are 2 hypothetical strategies with the same payoff, where winners make 2R and losers cost 1R, with R being the amount risked per trade.

  • The good one wins 40% of the time, so it makes 0.2R per trade on average.
  • The bad one wins 30% of the time, so it loses 0.1R per trade on average.

I worked out the exact odds of each one fooling you:

After this many tradesGood strategy is still behindBad strategy is ahead
1038%35%
2025%39%
5016%32%
1009%22%
2003%16%

Look at the 20-trade row. The losing strategy is ahead almost 4 times in 10, and the winning one is still behind 1 time in 4. A trader who judges at 20 trades will dump good systems and fall in love with bad ones, and be sure of himself both times.

If you want a daily routine that keeps you taking the valid trades through a slow patch, the free 15-Minute Swing Trader’s Checklist is at the end of this post.

How many trades do you really need?

It depends on the size of your edge. The bigger the edge per trade, the sooner it stands out from the noise. Here is roughly how many trades it takes before the average result sits clearly above zero, at 2 standard errors:

Edge per tradeExampleTrades needed, roughly
0.5Rwins 50%, winners 2R36
0.4Rwins 35%, winners 3R91
0.2Rwins 40%, winners 2R216
0.1Rwins 55%, winners 1R396
0.03Rwins about 52%, winners 1Rabout 3,900

Most real strategies sit in the middle rows, which is where the 100 to 200 rule comes from. It is a floor. A thin edge needs far more.

A trader on r/Daytrading ran into the bottom row in August 2026. He had 500 trades on gold futures, half backtested and half traded forward, and asked a simple question: “is this an edge or variance?”

At a 1-to-1 payoff his result was “+0.032R/trade”, which, as he wrote himself, “could easily disappear once costs are included.” He was right to be cautious. By the table, an edge that thin needs thousands of trades to confirm. He also tested several profit targets on the same 500 trades and found one that looked best, and he flagged that too as possibly “variance / overfitting”. Testing many versions on one sample and keeping the winner is the fastest way to fool yourself with a small sample, so his caution is the useful part.

What do you do while the sample builds?

3 things, none of them exciting.

  1. Trade small. Size each trade so that the losing streaks a normal sample throws up cannot hurt you. The 2% money management rule for position sizing is the place to start, and smaller is fine while you learn.
  2. Log every trade. Without a record, there is no sample to judge. A trading journal turns your trades into data you can count.
  3. Judge the process before the results. Did you take the trades the rules said to take, at the size they said? That you can answer after 10 trades. Whether the rules work takes the 100 to 200.

The pull to judge early is very human. Our minds read patterns into short runs, which is the representativeness bias, the danger of a small sample size. Knowing it exists does not switch it off, so the rule has to be written down before the streak arrives.

Personally, I think the most useful number to know is your expectancy, the average R per trade, because it tells you which row of that table you are in. That is the next read, how to calculate a strategy’s expectancy, and its companion on win rate versus reward-to-risk. The wider map is in the practical guide to money and risk management, and why surviving the sample matters at all is in why risk management is important in trading.

Back in March 2026, another trader on r/Daytrading posted 2 months of results and asked: “Am I finding an edge or just getting lucky?” After 2 months, the honest answer is almost always that nobody can tell yet, him included. The answer arrives somewhere past trade 100, for whoever is still trading small enough to get there.

FAQ

What is the law of large numbers in trading?

It is the idea that your average result moves closer to your strategy’s true edge as you take more trades. Over a few trades luck dominates. Over hundreds the edge shows.

How many trades do I need to backtest a strategy?

At least 100 to 200, and more if the edge is thin. A strategy that makes only a few hundredths of an R per trade can need thousands of trades before it is clearly real.

Is 20 trades enough to judge a strategy?

No. After 20 trades a strategy that wins half the time can plausibly show a win rate between about 28% and 72%, so the record cannot separate a good system from a bad one.

What is the Central Limit Theorem in trading?

It says the total of many independent trades behaves like a bell curve. The edge grows with the number of trades while the noise grows only with its square root, so more trades make the edge easier to see.

Should I change my strategy after a losing streak?

A streak on its own is too little to go on. Check that you followed the rules and that the sample is large enough, because losing streaks of 5 or 6 trades are normal even in a strategy that works.

Go deeper

The free 15-Minute Swing Trader’s Checklist has the daily routine, the questions to ask before every trade, and the five rules that keep you in the game.


About the author. Spencer Li is The 15-Minute Trader and the founder of Synapse Trading. He is a Certified Financial Technician (CFTe) with 15+ years of trading, run from 70+ countries. He holds a B.Acc and B.BM from SMU. Every trade he takes is public, dated, losses left in. He teaches rules-based swing trading in 15 minutes a day, one system for any market.

Educational content only, not personalised financial advice. Trading carries risk, including loss of capital. Past performance is not indicative of future results. Synapse Trading is not licensed or regulated by MAS.

by Spencer Li
https://synapsetrading.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/law-of-large-numbers-trading-card.webp 630 1200 Spencer Li https://synapsetrading.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/synapse-logo-horizontal-light.png Spencer Li2026-08-11 15:41:152026-10-26 16:53:15The Law of Large Numbers in Trading: How Many Trades Before You Judge a Strategy?
Spencer Li

The Cheapest Way to Dollar-Cost Average from Singapore: Which Fee Hurts Most

Singapore Money & Lifestyle
Cheapest way to DCA - investing

Last updated: 11 October 2026 · By Spencer Li, CFTe


The cheapest way to dollar-cost average from Singapore is the plan whose total cost, as a share of what you put in, stays lowest over the years you will actually invest. For most people that comes down to one test. A fee charged once on each monthly buy costs you that percentage once. A fee charged every year on everything you hold keeps costing you, on a pot that keeps growing.

So before you compare platforms, sort every fee into 2 boxes: per buy and per year. Then work out what each box costs on your monthly amount. A minimum commission can make a cheap-looking broker expensive at SGD 300 a month, and a small yearly fee can grow into the biggest number on the bill after 20 years.

This post names no broker, bank or app, and it carries no referral link. It answers a question that turns up again and again on Singapore forums: what is the cheapest way to put a fixed sum into an ETF or SGX shares every month?

Compare the yearly fees first. Summary card for the post: The Cheapest Way to Dollar-Cost Average from Singapore: Which Fee Hurts Most.

Is dollar-cost averaging even the right plan?

For a salaried investor, it is mostly not a choice. Your money arrives monthly, so you invest it monthly.

The research question is a different one. If you already hold a lump sum, should you invest it all at once or feed it in over a year? Vanguard looked at exactly that in a 2012 paper, across the US, the UK and Australia, and found that “an LSI approach has outperformed a DCA approach approximately two-thirds of the time”. LSI is lump-sum investing. The paper’s own explanation is that stocks and bonds beat cash over the period it studied, so money left waiting in cash missed some of the rise. It also grants the other side its due, and says spreading the money out may help an investor who is “primarily concerned with minimizing downside risk and potential feelings of regret”.

Now, don’t take that as a reason to feel bad about monthly investing. The same paper is about a windfall. Someone saving SGD 800 from each pay cheque has no lump sum to deploy, and the monthly plan is simply how the money shows up. The point of this post is the cost of doing it, because that is the part you control.

Which fees do you actually pay on a monthly plan?

More than the headline suggests. MoneySense, the national financial education site, puts it plainly: “Bid-ask spreads, brokerage commissions, and withholding taxes also affect your net return.”

Here are the fee types, sorted into the 2 boxes.

FeePer buy or per year?Where you find it
Brokerage commission, often with a minimumPer buyThe broker’s fee schedule
SGX clearing and access fees, plus GSTPer buyThe broker’s fee schedule
Currency conversion spread (SGD to USD)Per buyThe FX rate you get against the mid rate
Bid-ask spread on the ETFPer buyThe quote screen
Sales charge on a unit trustPer buyThe fund’s product highlights
Platform or custody feePer yearThe platform’s fee page
Robo-adviser management feePer yearThe platform’s fee page
Fund expense ratio (TER)Per yearThe fund factsheet
US withholding tax on dividendsPer yearThe fund’s domicile, and the tax pages

On SGX, MoneySense notes that on top of the broker’s commission “there is a CDP clearing fee and SGX trading access fee. Please note that GST is payable on all fees.” And on unit trust platforms, it puts the platform fee at “0 – 0.3% per annum of the total value of fund holdings”.

Why does a per-year fee hurt more than a per-buy fee?

Because the per-year fee is charged on your whole balance, every year, and the balance grows.

Here is the hypothetical arithmetic. Suppose you invest SGD 500 a month for 20 years, and the portfolio grows at 6% a year before costs. That 6% is an assumption for the example and nothing more. With no costs at all, the pot ends at about SGD 227,800.

Now add one fee at a time.

  • A fee of 0.5% on each buy costs about SGD 1,100 over the 20 years. That is 0.5% of the final pot.
  • A fee of 0.5% a year on everything you hold costs about SGD 12,400. That is 5.5% of the final pot.

The same 0.5%, written on 2 different fee pages, and one costs about 11 times more than the other. I find this the most useful single fact about monthly investing, because the fee pages make the 2 look identical.

Two bars for the same 0.5% fee over 20 years: charged on each buy it is small; charged every year on the whole pot it is about 11 times bigger
Charged every year, a 0.5% fee costs about 11 times more than charged on each buy.

Do note that a yearly fee is sometimes worth paying, because it buys something real, like automatic rebalancing or a fund you would struggle to build yourself. Plenty of people sleep better knowing a machine is doing the boring part for them. The point is to know the price before you agree to it. A 1% yearly fee, on the same example, costs about SGD 24,100, or 10.6% of the pot.

When does a minimum commission become the biggest cost?

When your monthly amount is small. A minimum commission is a fixed dollar fee, so its weight depends entirely on the size of the order. It works like the fixed booking fee on a cinema ticket, which hardly matters when you book for a family of 5 and stings when you go alone on a weeknight.

Take a hypothetical minimum of SGD 10 per trade. On a SGD 2,000 monthly buy, that is 0.5%. On a SGD 500 buy, it is 2%. Run the 20-year example with 2% on every buy and the cost comes to about SGD 4,600, which is still less than the 0.5% yearly fee, but it is a lot to pay for a single click each month.

There are 2 ways around it. The first is a regular savings plan, which some banks and brokers run for a fixed monthly amount. MoneySense says “ETF RSPs through some brokerages start from $100/month”, and unit trust plans start from “$100–$500 per month”. These usually charge a percentage per buy with a lower minimum, which suits small amounts. The second is to buy less often. Saving SGD 500 a month and buying once a quarter at SGD 1,500 cuts the commission’s share by two-thirds.

Personally, I would rather buy quarterly at a low cost than monthly at a high one. The difference in timing over 20 years is small. The difference in fees is not.

What changes when you buy overseas ETFs?

Two more per-buy costs, and one per-year cost that most people never see.

The first per-buy cost is the currency conversion. Every Singapore dollar becomes a US dollar before it buys a US-listed or a London-listed USD fund. A broker with a low commission, say USD 1 (about SGD 1.28) a trade, can still take a wider cut in the exchange rate. Nobody sends you a bill for it. Compare the rate you get against the mid rate on the same day. The second is the bid-ask spread. MoneySense notes that “If you are investing regularly, a wide spread is an ongoing cost that the TER does not capture.”

The per-year cost is tax. A US-domiciled ETF held by a Singapore investor pays US withholding tax on its dividends, which MoneySense puts at 30%. The fund’s domicile changes that number, and that is a big enough topic to have its own post on choosing an index ETF.

How you hold the shares matters too. Some brokers hold SGX shares in your own CDP account, others hold them in a custodian account in their name. Ask which one you are getting before the first deposit, because it decides who receives the dividends and the company notices directly.

So which plan is cheapest for you?

The one that passes the per-buy versus per-year test on your own monthly amount. Here is the order I would check it in.

  1. Write down your monthly amount and how often you will buy.
  2. Add up every per-buy fee as a percentage of that amount, including the FX spread.
  3. Add up every per-year fee, including the fund’s TER and any platform fee.
  4. Treat the per-year total as roughly 10 times more expensive than it looks over 20 years.

A robo-adviser usually wins on step 2 and loses on step 3, which is why the robo-adviser or DIY question is really a question about what the yearly fee buys you. A plain ETF bought in larger, less frequent lots usually wins on step 3 and can lose on step 2 when the amounts are small.

If you want the bigger picture, the DIY guide to building your investment portfolio covers where the monthly money should go in the first place, and rebalancing covers what to do once it is invested. Bogle’s case for low costs is summarised in our book summary of The Little Book of Common Sense Investing.

If you want a 15-minute daily routine for the trading side of your money, the free checklist is at the end of this post.

So which box holds most of your fees today, and did you know it before you read this?

FAQ

What is the cheapest way to dollar-cost average in Singapore?

The cheapest plan is the one with the lowest total cost on your own monthly amount. Fees charged every year on your whole balance usually cost far more over 20 years than fees charged once on each buy, so compare the yearly fees first.

Is dollar-cost averaging better than investing a lump sum?

For a lump sum, Vanguard’s 2012 study found investing it at once beat spreading it out about two-thirds of the time. For a monthly salary, there is no lump sum, so monthly investing is simply how the money arrives.

Does a minimum commission matter for small monthly amounts?

Yes. A fixed SGD 10 minimum is 2% of a SGD 500 buy but 0.5% of a SGD 2,000 buy. Buying less often, or using a regular savings plan with a lower minimum, reduces it.

Should I include the currency conversion cost?

Yes. Every overseas ETF buy converts Singapore dollars first, and the spread on that conversion is a per-buy cost that does not appear on the commission line.

Go deeper

The free 15-Minute Swing Trader’s Checklist has the daily routine, the questions to ask before every trade, and the five rules that keep you in the game.


About the author. Spencer Li is The 15-Minute Trader and the founder of Synapse Trading. He is a Certified Financial Technician (CFTe) with 15+ years of trading, run from 70+ countries. He holds a B.Acc and B.BM from SMU. Every trade he takes is public, dated, losses left in. He teaches rules-based swing trading in 15 minutes a day, one system for any market.

Educational content only, not personalised financial advice. Trading carries risk, including loss of capital. Past performance is not indicative of future results. Synapse Trading is not licensed or regulated by MAS.

by Spencer Li
https://synapsetrading.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/dollar-cost-averaging-singapore-card.webp 630 1200 Spencer Li https://synapsetrading.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/synapse-logo-horizontal-light.png Spencer Li2026-08-11 12:09:292026-10-26 16:53:18The Cheapest Way to Dollar-Cost Average from Singapore: Which Fee Hurts Most
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