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Trading & travelling across the world!

Spencer Li

Hokkaido Road Trip: 15 Days, 1 Rental Car and What We Actually Ate

Travel & Lifestyle
The green cliffs and blue sea of the Shakotan coast, Hokkaido

I turned 40 in an onsen by Lake Toya, in the rain, on a 15-day road trip around Hokkaido in July 2026.

We flew into Sapporo, picked up our rental car, and drove a loop through Lake Toya, Hakodate, Jozankei, Furano, Otaru and the Shakotan peninsula. Before we left, I did what I always do. I built a research file for every stop, with ranked lists of the best seafood bowls, soup curry, ramen and lamb barbecue on the route. Then the trip happened.

So this is the Hokkaido that actually happened, stop by stop, with the meals that earned a place on my final list.

Why Hokkaido, and why by car?

The Shakotan coast road, a car ahead, a sea stack

Hokkaido is Japan’s northern island. In July it is cooler than most of Japan, the lavender is out around Furano, and the sea urchin (uni) is in season. The sights are spread far apart, and many of them sit well away from a train line, which is why we drove.

The last time I wrote about Japan was in 2013, after a trip through Kyoto, Hiroshima, Kobe, Fukuoka and Osaka. This one was slower, further north, and built almost entirely around food.

I logged 35 meals on this trip, and at the end I picked my 15 favourites. About a third came from my research, about a third were places we found on the spot, and the last third came from a hotel upgrade or a local’s tip. Research and luck finished in a dead heat.

Three equal columns for where the 15 favourite meals of the trip came from: research, places found on the spot, and a hotel upgrade or a local's tip
My 15 favourite meals came about equally from research, finds on the spot and tips.

Sapporo: is the soup curry worth it?

The soup curry at Okushiba
The Teshikaga ramen

Our flight landed about an hour late, and collecting the car took another hour, so every plan for the first night went out of the window. We got a late dinner at Meshiya Kodo instead, which was very good, and a Penicillin at Cocktail Bar Harada, which was average. Bed was around 3am.

That first dinner ended up on my final list. So did the next day’s lunch, Soup Curry Okushiba near Sapporo Station, which was excellent. Soup curry is Sapporo’s own dish, a thin spiced broth with whole vegetables and a chicken leg, eaten with rice on the side.

That night we queued about an hour for Teshikaga Ramen at 9.30pm, and it made the list as well. Three meals in, three on the final list.

Lake Toya: what do you do when it rains on your 40th?

Lake Toya and Nakajima in mist and rain
The lake fireworks and their reflection

We drove south to Lake Toya on day 3 and skipped the Ainu museum (Upopoy) on the way. We checked in at our hotel around 6.30pm, about 4 hours later than planned.

Then it rained. It rained on my birthday, and it rained the day after. The plan had a champagne sunset, a cruise on the lake, Noboribetsu’s Hell Valley and the ropeway up Mt Usu, and the weather took all of it. Noboribetsu sits at number 3 on my own ranked list of Japan’s best onsen towns, and we never got there.

What we did instead was soak in the cypress tub in our room, nap, swim, and then take a shuttle and a boat out onto the lake for the fireworks at 8pm. On day 5, we upgraded dinner to teppanyaki, and it was the best meal of the trip up to that point. I even got some work done.

Hakodate: how much uni can two people eat?

The 5-uni bowl at Yoichiya with its origin card
Hakodate from the ropeway

The drive to Hakodate was meant to include a quick stop at Fukidashi Park, 30 to 45 minutes. We spent 2.5 hours there in the rain, with a coffee parfait and a raindrop cake, then drove to Milk Kobo, a farm dairy near Niseko, where the chocolate soft serve made my final list. We reached our ryokan in the Yunokawa onsen area at 7.30pm.

The Hakodate days were my wife’s to plan. On day 7 we walked the old churches of Motomachi, took the ropeway up Mt Hakodate in daylight, and sat down for a 12-course omakase at Sushi Kihara, which made the list. Then we went back and ate the ryokan’s kaiseki as well. 2 dinners, 1 night.

The next day started with an uni brunch at Yoichiya in the morning market, 5 kinds of uni in one sitting. Then musk melon, a pumpkin soft serve at the Kanemori red brick warehouses, and a mocha soft serve at Hakodate Misuzu, a coffee roaster that has been going since 1932. That night’s kaiseki was the best hotel dinner of the trip so far, and the night ended with cocktails by the pool until 11.30pm.

Personally, I learnt something about kaiseki on this trip. Every kaiseki dinner was good, and after about 8 of them, none stood out. Next time I would cap it at 2 or 3 in a row and spend the difference on a restaurant worth the drive.

Furano: why did I check everything except the closing time?

Farm Tomita's flower rows

On day 9 we stopped at Onuma for its famous dango from Numa no Ya, and at Lake Hill Farm for a milk soft serve with a shiso sorbet. Both made the list. That night, in the onsen town of Jozankei, we walked the Summer Lanterns path after dinner.

The next day we detoured back through Sapporo for lunch at Nemuro Hanamaru, a sushi place with a queue ticket system. We shopped for about 1.5 hours while we waited, and the sushi was very good. Dinner in Furano was at Kumagera, a hotpot and a curry rice, and the curry rice was the standout.

Day 11 was a photoshoot for the two of us. The photographers arrived at 2.30pm and we left at 4.30pm, about an hour late, for Flower Land Kamifurano. It closes at 5.30pm. We got about 30 rushed minutes inside, and took the rest of the shots in the car park. I had checked the map code for every stop on this trip, and I never checked when that one closed. We did get the sunset at Hinode Park, and wrapped at 7.45pm.

Day 12 was the egg pudding at Furano Délice (on the list), then Farm Tomita, the Blue Pond and Shirahige Falls. Dinner was okonomiyaki at Masaya. Very good.

Otaru and Shakotan: did the research win?

The Gantaro uni bowl
The ridge path at Cape Kamui

In Otaru, we stumbled on a Miffy store we had not planned for, and the sake brewery Tanaka Shuzo Kikkogura sent us home with a few bottles and a carafe set. Dinner at Masazushi’s original shop was very good. Afterwards we walked along the Otaru canal, which is the picture most people have of the town.

On day 14, my research said to skip Shakotan because of the weather and the crowds. We went anyway, because a bartender had tipped us off about a small uni shop called Gantaro, and his tip landed. After that we stopped at Kamui Farm, which we found on the road, and walked out to Cape Kamui. The last dinner was a 1-hour queue at Ramen Shingen’s original Hanakawa shop, which also made the list.

So the uni bowl on my final list from that day came from a bartender, rather than from my research file.

My 15 favourite meals, in the order we ate them

The uni and seafood bowl at Gantaro, Shakotan
  1. Meshiya Kodo, Sapporo
  2. Soup Curry Okushiba, Sapporo
  3. Teshikaga Ramen, Sapporo
  4. The upgraded hotel teppanyaki, Lake Toya
  5. Chocolate soft serve at Milk Kobo, near Niseko
  6. Sushi Kihara omakase, Hakodate
  7. The 5-uni brunch at Yoichiya, Hakodate
  8. Mocha soft serve and coffee at Hakodate Misuzu
  9. Dango at Numa no Ya, Onuma
  10. Milk and shiso sorbet at Lake Hill Farm
  11. Nemuro Hanamaru, Sapporo
  12. Egg pudding at Furano Délice
  13. Masazushi, Otaru
  14. The uni bowl at Gantaro, Shakotan
  15. Ramen Shingen, Hanakawa

How did the trading fit in?

Checking the markets on a phone in the Lake Toya hotel lounge

The same way it always does, in about 15 minutes a day. Hokkaido is only an hour ahead of Singapore, so nothing about the routine had to move.

That routine is what lets a trip like this run for 15 days. I wrote up how it works, the watchlist, the alerts and the time zones, in how I trade while travelling.

What would bring us back?

The Shakotan coast from the cape

Winter, first. Everything this trip was built around has a winter version, including the crab kaiseki we never got to eat. Then the east and the far north, which we never touched, because our July loop covered only the south and the middle of the island.

If you are planning Hokkaido, three things I would tell a friend. Plan 2 or 3 stops a day, because our over-packed days trimmed themselves to that anyway. Check the closing time of anything you care about. And leave room for a local’s tip, because ours beat my spreadsheet.

Have you driven around Hokkaido? Which stop would you add? Let me know in the comments.

All my other trips are on the travel log, country by country, and more photos from this one are on Instagram, @iamrecneps.

Spencer Li

by Spencer Li
https://synapsetrading.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/share-hokkaido-2026-shakotan.jpg 630 1200 Spencer Li https://synapsetrading.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/synapse-logo-horizontal-light.png Spencer Li2026-07-21 12:00:002026-10-22 12:51:48Hokkaido Road Trip: 15 Days, 1 Rental Car and What We Actually Ate
Spencer Li

Slovenia and Croatia in Winter: A Christmas Honeymoon from Lake Bled to Zagreb

Travel & Lifestyle
Lake Bled and its church in winter, Slovenia

The first time I saw Lake Bled was in 2010, as an exchange student in Poland with a backpack and a rail map. 15 years later, I went back for my honeymoon.

From 21 December 2025 to 5 January 2026, my wife and I spent two weeks in Slovenia and Croatia, with Christmas at Lake Bled, a couple of days at a thermal spa, a night at Plitvice Lakes, and New Year in Zagreb.

Why Slovenia and Croatia for a December honeymoon?

Bled's church and cliff, snow on the hills, Christmas morning

Our brief was short: romantic, Christmas vibes, a little bit of luxury, and no dead towns. That last part matters more than it sounds, because a lot of Europe shuts down on Christmas Day and New Year’s Day, and a small town in winter can feel like a film set after the crew has gone home.

We weighed three options. South Korea had no closures at all, plus ski resorts and great shopping, but it felt more like a winter city break than a Christmas. Poland, Hungary and Romania had more snow and better value, with a lot more train-hopping. (Japan was on the list for a while too.)

Slovenia and Croatia won. Between them, they had the fairytale scenery, English spoken almost everywhere, quiet nature, and a Christmas market in Zagreb that runs into January.

So you might be thinking, what about the cold and the short days? Do note that daylight runs from roughly 7.30am to 4.15pm, so any long transfer has to fit into the middle of the day.

A day drawn as one bar, dark at both ends, with daylight from 7.30am to 4.15pm and a transfer block in the middle of the light
In December daylight runs from about 7.30am to 4.15pm, so fit long transfers mid-day.

What is Lake Bled like at Christmas?

The island church in mist, the Alps behind
Bled Castle lit on its cliff at dawn

We flew in through Amsterdam, spent one night in Ljubljana, and then had 5 nights at Lake Bled. Bled is the postcard you have probably seen: a small church on an island in the middle of the lake, a castle on the cliff above it, and the Julian Alps behind.

The main event was our honeymoon photoshoot around the lake.

Bled is also the home of the original cream cake, the kremšnita, which is a tall slab of vanilla custard and whipped cream between two sheets of pastry.

One day we went up to Vogel, a ski area above Lake Bohinj, which is the wilder and quieter lake next door.

What do you do after Christmas?

Rastoke: waterfalls under old houses, light snow
Plitvice's lakes in a snowy canyon

You go somewhere warm, even in Slovenia. On 27 December, a private transfer took us east to Podčetrtek, close to the Croatian border, for 2 nights at a thermal spa resort.

Then another transfer took us south into Croatia, with a stop at Rastoke, a small village of old watermills where the river runs right between and under the houses. We spent one night at Plitvice Lakes, the national park of terraced lakes and waterfalls. In a cold snap, the waterfalls can freeze into curtains of ice.

From Plitvice, a FlixBus took us the last stretch to Zagreb. We never hired a car on this trip.

How is New Year in Zagreb?

The Art Pavilion at dusk, Advent lights and a tree
The blue-lit Advent ice rink at night

We finished with 5 nights in Zagreb, and saw in 2026 there. Zagreb’s Advent market has been voted the best Christmas market in Europe several times, and it spreads across the whole city centre, with lights in the parks and food stalls on almost every square.

This was my third time in Croatia. I first came in 2010, and passed through Zagreb again at the end of 2019, on my Eastern Europe trip through 14 countries.

One tip from our planning that I would pass on: on 1 January, most restaurants in Zagreb close. The hotel restaurants stay open, so book one of those ahead. And the local dish our research kept pointing to was štrukli, a baked pastry filled with cottage cheese.

How did the trading fit in?

The same way it does on any trip, in about 15 minutes a day.

That short routine is what makes two weeks away possible at all, honeymoon included. The full setup, the watchlist, the alerts and the time zones, is in my post on how I trade while travelling.

What would I tell a friend?

St Mark's Church and its tiled roof

If you are planning a winter trip to Slovenia and Croatia, three things I would tell a friend. Book your Christmas Day and New Year’s Day dinners early, because so much closes. Use private transfers or the bus between towns instead of driving on winter roads. And give Zagreb more nights than you think, since the Advent market is the reason to be there in December.

Have you spent Christmas in Europe? Which market would you pick? Let me know in the comments.

All my other trips are on the travel log, country by country, and more photos from this one are on Instagram, @iamrecneps.

Spencer Li

by Spencer Li
https://synapsetrading.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/share-slovenia-2025-bled.jpg 630 1200 Spencer Li https://synapsetrading.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/synapse-logo-horizontal-light.png Spencer Li2026-01-05 12:00:002026-10-22 12:51:51Slovenia and Croatia in Winter: A Christmas Honeymoon from Lake Bled to Zagreb
Spencer Li

Bali and Cebu: Trading From the Islands Next Door

Travel & Lifestyle
The coast at Moalboal, Cebu, with island boats offshore

Some of my trips run for weeks. Between February 2024 and November 2025, I also took 3 short trips to islands a few hours from Singapore, twice to Bali and once to Cebu in the Philippines.

For a trader, these trips have one big advantage. Bali and Cebu run on the same clock as Singapore. Nothing moves. The market opens at the hour it always opens and the alerts land when they always land. So the same 15 minutes I spend at my desk at home simply happen somewhere else, in a villa in Canggu or a dive resort in Oslob, and the only thing that changes is the view.

Why the islands next door?

A Moalboal cove: rocks, clear shallows, a dive boat

Most of my long trips need some planning around the markets. A 15-day road trip in Hokkaido means a 1-hour shift. A month in Europe means checking the US open in the late afternoon. A short island trip in the same time zone needs none of that. Hence, it is the easiest kind of trip to take on a normal trading week.

Two identical clocks, one for Singapore and one for Bali and Cebu, showing the same time
Bali and Cebu share Singapore’s clock, so a trading routine runs there unchanged.

I have written about this part of the world before, from Borobudur in 2013 to Boracay in 2015 and the Philippines in 2018. These three trips were shorter and closer to home.

Bali, 2024: what does a group long weekend look like?

The Rock Bar decks on the Uluwatu cliff
Three coconuts on a beach-club pool edge, surf behind

The first was a long weekend in Canggu over the leap day, 29 February to 4 March 2024. There were 10 of us, my wife and me plus a group of friends, in a villa with its own pool.

The plan was mostly beach clubs and food. Finns and Mari Beach Club in Canggu, a sunset at the Rock Bar in Uluwatu, dinners at Sa’Mesa and the Iron Fairies, a massage at Sundari Day Spa, and an evening at Atlas. The bookings even included a silver jewellery class in Canggu.

Bali, 2025: can you do Bali on tennis and surfing?

Painted jukung boats on Sanur beach
Two surfers with red surfboards on the beach at Canggu, Bali

The second trip, in January 2025, was a quieter one with a friend. 2 nights in Sanur, then 3 in Canggu.

Sanur is the slower side of Bali, with a gentle beach and a local feel. The plan there was tennis at Liga on the first morning, then the beaches and a massage. In Canggu it was the beach clubs again, Mari and Finns, and drinks at the Iron Fairies. The cafe find was Revolver, which had excellent coffee.

On the last day, before the flight home, we went surfing in Canggu.

Cebu, 2025: what do you do with 8 nights in Cebu?

Lechon with the House of Lechon coconut
Snorkellers swimming out from the Moalboal reef edge

In November 2025, I went to Cebu for 8 nights with 2 friends. We split it across 3 bases, 2 nights in Cebu City, 3 at a dive resort in Oslob on the southern tip, and 3 in Moalboal on the west coast.

Cebu City was the food stop. Cebu’s lechon, a whole roast pig with crackling skin, is often called the best in the Philippines, so we ate it at House of Lechon. We also went to Sugbo Mercado, the night food market at the IT Park.

One of the highlights of the trip was the whale sharks at Oslob. Another was the sardine run in Moalboal. Millions of sardines sit just off the reef, close enough to swim out to from the shore with a mask and fins. The plan also had the Kawasan Falls canyoneering, which is a day of jumping, sliding and swimming down a river canyon. We also spent a day at Aguinid Falls, near Samboan in the south of Cebu.

Spencer swimming beside a whale shark at Oslob, Cebu
A snorkeller face to face with a whale shark at Oslob, Cebu

One of my friends is a certified diver, so he handled the diving. I do not dive.

How did the trading fit in?

The same way it always does, in about 15 minutes a day. Same clock, same routine.

That routine is the reason a long weekend away does not have to wait for a quiet week in the markets. I wrote up how it works, the watchlist, the alerts and the time zones, in how I trade while travelling.

What would I tell a friend?

A surfer on the Canggu shore at dusk

If you are thinking about a short island trip from Singapore, here are three things. Pick a place on the same clock, so the trip costs your routine nothing. Split a short trip across 2 bases at most, or the transfers eat the days. And in Cebu, plan the early starts around the sea, because the whale sharks and the sardines keep their own hours.

Do you have a go-to island for a long weekend? Bali, Cebu or somewhere else? Let me know in the comments.

All my other trips are on the travel log, country by country, and more photos from these ones are on Instagram, @iamrecneps.

Spencer Li

by Spencer Li
https://synapsetrading.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/share-bali-cebu-2025-moalboal.jpg 630 1200 Spencer Li https://synapsetrading.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/synapse-logo-horizontal-light.png Spencer Li2025-11-18 12:00:002026-10-22 12:51:52Bali and Cebu: Trading From the Islands Next Door
Spencer Li

Azerbaijan, Georgia and Armenia: 19 Days Across the Caucasus by Road

Travel & Lifestyle
Gergeti Trinity Church on its ridge below the Caucasus mountains near Kazbegi, Georgia
Gergeti Trinity Church on its ridge below the Caucasus mountains near Kazbegi, Georgia

In June 2025, I spent 19 days crossing three countries in the Caucasus: Azerbaijan, Georgia and Armenia.

We flew into Baku on 9 June, crossed into Georgia, then into Armenia, and flew out of Yerevan on 27 June. A private car and a local driver-guide took us the whole way, with a new driver waiting at each border. This is the route, from my photos.

Why the Caucasus?

Three small countries, three alphabets and three faiths, wedged between Russia, Turkey and Iran. Georgia claims about 8,000 years of winemaking. Armenia is held to be the first country to adopt Christianity as its state religion, in 301 AD. Azerbaijan has a hillside that burns on gas seeping out of the rock.

Armenia also sat at number 1 on my own list of places to go. Georgia was on it too.

So you might be thinking, how do you even get between them? You go the long way round. The border between Azerbaijan and Armenia is closed, so the route runs through Georgia, which is why our route went Baku, Tbilisi, Yerevan.

What does Baku look like?

Baku was our first 4 nights. It is a city of two halves.

The new half is built on oil money. The Heydar Aliyev Center, designed by Zaha Hadid, is one long white curve with no straight edge on it. From Highland Park at sunset you see the bay below and the three Flame Towers right behind you. They light up at night.

The white curved Heydar Aliyev Center in Baku, Azerbaijan

The old half is the walled Old City, a UNESCO site of narrow lanes, with the Maiden Tower at its centre. Tucked into those lanes is a museum of miniature books, with a Guinness certificate on the wall. On the last evening we took a boat out on the bay.

The Maiden Tower in the Old City of Baku

Why is Azerbaijan called the land of fire?

Day 4 was out of the city.

At Gobustan, the rocks are covered in carvings of people and animals, made thousands of years ago. Then we rode out in an old car to the mud volcanoes. They are small grey cones in a flat field. Wet grey mud runs down their sides, and the ground around them dries into a cracked crust.

A small mud volcano with cracked grey mud near Gobustan, Azerbaijan

Then the fire. At Yanar Dag, a hillside burns on natural gas seeping from the rock, with flames licking out along the base of a low cliff. At the Ateshgah fire temple nearby, worshippers once kept a flame going for the same reason.

Flames along the base of the hillside at Yanar Dag near Baku

What is Sheki like?

On day 5 we drove north-west into the hills, stopping at waterfalls along the way and then at Nohur Lake near Gabala, where a row of boats was tied up along the water’s edge.

Sheki is an old Silk Road town in the foothills of the Caucasus. The Palace of the Sheki Khans is covered in tiles and painted panels, and its windows are shebeke: small pieces of coloured glass held in a wooden frame without glue or nails. Down the road is an old caravanserai, where traders on the Silk Road once stopped for the night, and in the village of Kish there is a small stone church said to be among the oldest in the Caucasus.

Tiled facade and shebeke windows of the Palace of the Sheki Khans

Lunch was Sheki piti, a lamb and chickpea stew. The broth came in its own bowl, apart from the meat and chickpeas.

Sheki piti, lamb and chickpea stew with its broth in a separate bowl

Is the wine in Georgia really 8,000 years old?

We crossed into Georgia at Lagodekhi on day 7 and went up to Sighnaghi, a hilltop town that calls itself the “City of Love”. It rained most of the afternoon. The town walls and their gate towers still run round the hill.

Old town walls and gate of Sighnaghi in Georgia after the rain

The next day was Kakheti, the wine region, starting at the old Tsinandali estate.

Georgian wine is made in a qvevri, a huge clay jar buried in the ground, and the method is on UNESCO’s list of intangible heritage. At a winery in Kakheti we tasted a Saperavi red made in qvevri, and an amber dry white from the Khikhvi grape, made the same way. The last glass was a fortified wine, which the menu said was made from more than 300 grape varieties from the winery’s own collection vineyard.

That night we were in Tbilisi, looking down on the city lights from Mtatsminda, the hill above it.

What do you see in Tbilisi?

Tbilisi’s old town is a jumble of carved wooden balconies, hanging over the street. Down by the river, the Peace Bridge is a curved canopy of steel and glass, Metekhi church sits on the cliff above the water, and a cable car runs up over the old town to the fortress.

On the way back down, a stall was selling churchkhela, strings of walnuts dipped again and again in thickened grape juice until they look like candles.

What is on the Georgian Military Road?

The road north from Tbilisi to Russia is the Georgian Military Road, and it is lined with sights.

Jvari monastery sits on a hill above Mtskheta, where two rivers meet. Further up, Ananuri is a fortress and church on the edge of a reservoir. Higher still, near Gudauri, the Russia–Georgia Friendship Monument is a big curved arch of painted tiles on the edge of a drop.

Carved stone church wall at Ananuri fortress on the Georgian Military Road

Most visitors stop at Kazbegi. The Gergeti Trinity Church sits on a ridge at about 2,170 metres, with the mountains behind it. On our last afternoon there, Mount Kazbek was clear, snow to the summit, right above the town.

Snow-capped Mount Kazbek above the town of Kazbegi, Georgia

Why is everything in Armenia carved into the rock?

We crossed into Armenia at Sadakhlo on day 13 and went south through the Debed valley, past its old stone monasteries, to Lake Sevan. The lake sits at about 1,900 metres. Sevanavank, a pair of dark stone churches, stands on the peninsula above it.

Sevanavank church on the peninsula above Lake Sevan, Armenia

The next day started at the Arch of Charents, you look across the plain to Mount Ararat. Garni is a Greek-style temple from the first century AD. Below it, in the gorge, the Symphony of the Stones is a wall of basalt columns, so regular they look like organ pipes. Geghard is a monastery whose churches are partly carved out of the cliff itself, and inside, the walls are cut straight out of the rock.

Basalt columns of the Symphony of the Stones in the Garni gorge, Armenia
Rock-cut walls inside Geghard monastery, Armenia

Going south, we stopped at Khor Virap, the monastery right under Ararat. The mountain is in Turkey. Then came Areni. It is wine country again, with a barrel cellar and the Areni-1 cave, where archaeologists found what is thought to be the oldest known winery. Noravank sits at the end of a gorge of red cliffs. We ended that day in Jermuk, a spa town known for its mineral water and its waterfall.

Khor Virap monastery on the plain below Mount Ararat
Red cliffs of the gorge on the road to Noravank, Armenia

What is the Wings of Tatev?

Day 16 was waterfalls and wildflowers on the road south, with a stop at the Shaki waterfall, fields of purple flowers and a travertine cave with pools inside. That night we slept at a small B&B in Tatev. Dinner was salads, cheese, pickles and lavash.

In the morning we saw Tatev monastery, with its old stone oil press, and then the Wings of Tatev. It is a cable car of 5,752 metres across the gorge, listed by Guinness in 2010 as the longest non-stop reversible aerial tramway in the world.

Wings of Tatev cable car pylon above the gorge in southern Armenia

That afternoon we walked across the swinging bridge at Khndzoresk, a footbridge strung over a gorge to the old cave village on the other side. By dusk, on the way back to Yerevan, Ararat was in view again.

Swinging footbridge over the gorge at Khndzoresk, Armenia

What is Yerevan like?

We finished with 2 nights in Yerevan. The Vernissage is an open-air market of carpets, crafts and paintings. The Cascade is a giant stairway of art and fountains, with sculptures at the bottom. From the top, at 19:35 on our last evening, you can see Ararat over the whole city.

Yerevan rooftops with Mount Ararat behind, seen from the Cascade

How did the trading fit in?

The same way it always does, in about 15 minutes a day.

The trip ran right through the 12-day war between Israel and Iran, and Iran borders both Azerbaijan and Armenia. My camera roll from those days has market screens between the monasteries. On the morning of day 5 there is a chart of how markets reacted to past wars and invasions. Then oil and strike headlines in Sheki the next evening, and a silver chart at 7:28 one morning on the Military Road day. The last is the news of the US strikes on Iran’s nuclear sites, on the morning we drove to Garni.

I wrote up how the routine works, the watchlist, the alerts and the time zones, in how I trade while travelling.

Where does it fit?

Every trip is on the travel log, country by country, and more photos from this one are on Instagram, @iamrecneps.

Have you been to any of the three? Which one would you pick first? Let me know in the comments.

Spencer Li

by Spencer Li
https://synapsetrading.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/caucasus-2025-gergeti-trinity-church-on-its-ridge.webp 900 1200 Spencer Li https://synapsetrading.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/synapse-logo-horizontal-light.png Spencer Li2025-06-27 10:00:002026-10-22 14:28:30Azerbaijan, Georgia and Armenia: 19 Days Across the Caucasus by Road
Spencer Li

Norway by Road and Sea: Bergen, the Fjords, Hurtigruten and Lofoten in 26 Days

Travel & Lifestyle
View over the Lofoten islands in Norway

In August 2024, we spent about 26 days in Norway, and it was my wife’s dream trip long before she was my wife.

The shape was simple. A train from Oslo to Bergen, a week driving the fjords, 4 days on a coastal ship up to the Lofoten islands, and about 11 days driving Lofoten itself. Then a flight back to Oslo and home.

We also brought a full camping kit, with tents, down sleeping bags and a stove, and camping by the rivers and fjords turned out to be some of the most fun we had.

Why Norway, and why in August?

Reine's peak over the fjord, Lofoten
Our tent by the river at the Aurland campsite

Most people think of Norway in winter, for the Northern Lights. We went in summer, for the opposite reason. Lofoten sits above the Arctic Circle, and in August the days are long enough to hike after dinner, the mountain roads are open, and the weather is about as kind as it gets up there.

So you might be thinking, is it as expensive as everyone says? Yes. Norway is very expensive, which is part of why we planned to camp.

The last trip this far north that I wrote up was Iceland, Ireland and the UK in 2016. Lofoten is further north than any of it.

Oslo to Bergen: is the train worth 7 hours?

The mountain plateau and a red hut, from the Bergen train
The Fish Me seafood spread

We landed in Oslo in the morning, and that same afternoon we took the 7-hour train across the mountains to Bergen.

In Bergen we picked up the first rental car. The meal we were most looking forward to in Bergen was Fish Me, inside the indoor fish market, rather than the outdoor stalls along the harbour.

The fjords: what do you actually do there?

The Aurlandsfjord from Stegastein
Still water on the fjord cruise

Mostly, you drive, stop, stare and drive again. We spent about a week on the fjords leg, with a night on the Hardangerfjord at Øystese, a stop at the Stegastein viewpoint high above the Aurlandsfjord, and a craft beer at the Ægir microbrewery in Flåm. We also took a tour on the Nærøyfjord, one of the narrowest fjords in Norway.

One plan failed. We set out to hike Rimstigen, a steep trail above the Nærøyfjord, and we did not finish it.

We camped along the way too, at Lunde and Vang. We pitched the tent by the river, and we also stayed in the campsites’ small cabins, with shared toilets and showers. Waking up next to a river in the fjords was a big part of why this leg was so much fun.

Hurtigruten: is the coastal ship worth 4 days?

The ship's bow in the Geirangerfjord
A rainbow over a skerry, from the deck

From Bergen, we boarded the Hurtigruten for 4 days up the coast to Svolvær in Lofoten. The Hurtigruten started in the 1890s as a mail and cargo route, calling at small ports up and down the coast, and the ships still run that line today with passengers on board.

Doing this leg by sea turned the longest stretch of the route into 4 days of rest. Nobody had to drive, the scenery came to us, and the route took in the Geirangerfjord along the way.

A sketch of the Norway route: the train from Oslo to Bergen, a drive through the fjords, then the long leg north to Lofoten by ship over 4 days
Doing the longest leg by coastal ship turned 4 days of the route into rest.

Lofoten: which hikes are worth it?

Reine from the top of Reinebringen
Kvalvika Beach from Ryten

We reached Svolvær and picked up an electric car for the next 11 or so days. Norway is about as easy as it gets for an electric car, since almost every new car sold there is electric and the chargers are everywhere. We still planned every day around range and the next charger, because Lofoten’s roads are long and the distances add up. We camped at Moskenes in the south and Sandvika further up.

We finished 3 of the big Lofoten hikes, and here is how I would describe each to a friend.

  1. Reinebringen. A steep stair climb of about 2,000 stone steps straight up from the road, to the view of Reine that you have seen on every Lofoten poster.
  2. Kvalvika Beach and Ryten. A walk over a pass to a remote beach, then up Ryten for the view down onto it.
  3. Offersøykammen. The shortest of the three, about 2.5 km, with a big view for the effort.

The fishing villages fill in the rest. Reine is the most photographed. Henningsvær is built across small islands, and Nusfjord is one of the oldest preserved fishing villages in Norway.

How did the trading fit in?

Laptop with a chart, by the campsite river

The same way it always does, in about 15 minutes a day. Norway is 6 hours behind Singapore in August, so the US market opens at 3.30pm local time, in the middle of the afternoon.

That routine is what makes a 26-day trip possible at all. I wrote up how it works, the watchlist, the alerts and the time zones, in how I trade while travelling.

What would I tell a friend?

Kayaking under the Lofoten peaks
The view from Offersøykammen over Lofoten

If you are thinking about Norway in summer, here are three things. Take the Hurtigruten for the longest leg and rest on it. Spend at least a few nights at a campsite, in a tent or one of the small cabins. And eat inside the Bergen fish market, rather than at the stalls outside it.

Have you been to Lofoten, or is it on your list? Which hike would you do first? Let me know in the comments.

All my other trips are on the travel log, country by country, and more photos from this one are on Instagram, @iamrecneps.

Spencer Li

by Spencer Li
https://synapsetrading.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/share-norway-2024-lofoten.jpg 630 1200 Spencer Li https://synapsetrading.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/10/synapse-logo-horizontal-light.png Spencer Li2024-09-03 12:00:002026-10-22 12:51:56Norway by Road and Sea: Bergen, the Fjords, Hurtigruten and Lofoten in 26 Days
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